Memory

mem·o·ry  [mem-uh-ree]

noun, plural mem·o·ries.

the mental capacity or faculty of retaining and reviving facts, events, impressions, etc., or ofrecalling or recognizing previous experiences.

Sometimes you’ll never know the value of a moment till it becomes a memory. It’s ironic and unfortunate that I couldn’t recollect this memory.  4 years ago, on April 11th 2009, I had penned my first blogpost which reads-

 “Hello...I am Purushu, an 18yr old design aspirant who has currently joined the department of fashion design, NIFT New Delhi. Of late, I've been a lot into fashion and its design aspects. I am a lot inspired by the artistic expression of fashion. I love wild silhouettes, intricate details, wacky cuts, crazy textures and bold colours.

As a  budding designer, I'd like this blog to be my expression of fashion and design. This blog would be more of my fashion scrapbook where I'd write about my favourite collections, inspiring design elements, fashion illustrations, styling and fashion photography and my design creations that I'll be religiously doing for the rest of my life!”.

Memory, I have a poor one. Memories, I have many to rejoice and cherish and this is certainly one of them!

I still remember that arbitrary moment when I randomly opened blogger.com and created this blog when I had no clue that it’ll go on to be rated as Delhi's most influential blog! I had no idea that I'll be attending high-end social events. I had no idea that I'll be getting my 1st big pay cheque. I seriously never thought that I'll be writing the official fashion show reviews for FDCI WIFW. It's all crazy when I look back. I don't have anything more to add apart from thanking you all for the love and support!

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Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week AW 2013 - Day 1

It was about two years ago that I started reviewing fashion shows for FDCI Designer Mode magazine and it was a nostalgic ‘the-last-lesson’ moment when I signed up for the assignment for one last time before I relocate to Mumbai.

Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week AW 2013 season opened with the much-hyped Satya Paul show with Masaba Gupta as the brand’s new creative director. The show opened with garments featuring interesting neon lip-stick prints in neutral base fabric (styled with funky accessories). But unfortunately transforms from this to that in a span of 2 minutes!

Masaba Gupta for Satya Paul, Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week - Autumn/Winter 2013.

The 2nd show of the day featured Anupama Dayal's resort autumn/winter collection which begins on black/white boho note and ends in some-what balika-vadhu style!

The first look at Annaikka by Kanika Saluja featured  nude evening dresses, bejeweled in copper which were followed by dresses in blacks and deep red with Annaikka's signature metallic embellishments. Kanika Saluja combined leather along with bling elements to create powerful evening wear line for the autumn/winter 2013 season. For the third season in a row, the young and talented fashion designer finished in style with jaw-dropping showstopper outfit.

  Show stopper at Annaikka

Siddartha Tytler's autumn/winter 2013 show started on a dark gothic note set in Victorian era. Quilted jackets, Victorian collars and brocades set high standards and expectations for the show which only got hijacked by commercial designs with nothing but oodles of sequins & crystals smeared all over. Nevertheless, the fashion designer is crystal-clear with his design aesthetics and few ensembles from the collection will be an ideal companion for a winter evening that lies ahead!

Siddartha Tytler, Autumn/Winter 2013

You know that it is an awkward start when a model has just opened the show and you hear people discussing from behind, 'Vineet Bahl ki kaam wali bai is on the ramp'.

Vineet Bahl is undoubtedly one of my favourite ethnic wear designers, but I could not help but compare his present autumn/winter 2013 collection with the ones he presented previously. Vineet Bahl's outfits generally feature strategically placed embroidery motifs which are both intricate and delightful. The garments from his autumn/winter 2013 however speaks a different story altogether, in terms of fabrics, colour palette and styling (seriously! STYLING)

Isn't the autumn/winter 2013 all about mix-and-match trend? There were many collections that offered geometric motifs with paisleys, drapes with structure, bright neons with murky charcoals etc. However, the outfits at Nikasha were different, they were simply monotonous, head-to-toe! I remember tweeting, "Cheers! The 'autumn/winter' show is over" after the show concluded and would love to hear what you think about the collection.

Nikasha, Autumn/Winter 2013

Fashion designer Surily Goel got the gorgeous Preity Zinta to walk the ramp for her, but what really caught my attention was a black top with honeycomb pattern that carried uncanny resemblance to Gucci SS 2013 ensemble (Read: http://www.purushu.com/2013/03/surily-goel-inspired-from-gucci.html)

Preity Zinta walking the ramp for Surily Goel, Autumn/Winter 2013

The dashing fashion designer duo Pankaj and Nidhi remain the undisputed heroes of day one at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week AW 2013. On day 1 at WIFW, Pankaj & Nidhi (along with Annaikka and Namrata Joshipura) were the only designers who bothered to offer layered separates in winter fabrics. Read more about their collection here: http://www.purushu.com/2013/03/pankaj-nidhi-wills-lifestyle-india.html

Pankaj and Nidhi, Autumn/Winter 2013

The autumn/winter 2013 runway at Namrata Joshipura was decorated with angel wings on both sides hinting that the collection was about a free spirited modern woman who's simply herself. The collection had the designer's signature edgy touch with hints of street inspired elements and sequins. Namrata Joshipura also remains the only designer to have used cashmere wool so far on day one. A variety of textiles including woolens, leather, polytex and georgette were used to craft highly wearable separates in tones of murky blacks, browns and bold red.

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Surily Goel inspired from Gucci?

It has now become quite a predictable trend in Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week to see few ensembles or collections carrying uncanny resemblances to those which have been showcased previously. A few seasons ago I had tweeted images of Shantanu Goenka’s ensemble resembling Alexander McQueen. The déjà vu moment returned in WIFW Day 1 when Charu of Picky C tweeted, “Give me a minute till I recover from Surily's Gucci rip off. #wifw”.

The placement of they laser-cut honeycomb structure in black at Surily Goel carries eerie resemblance to Gucci spring/summer 2013 ensemble. 

I definitely cannot disagree with Charu's tweet but again wont' completely agree either! Given that this follows exactly one season after Gucci SS 2013, the top at Surily definitely seems to be 'inspired' from Gucci. However, one shouldn't forget that honeycomb pattern is a major trend for this season and has featured in many other ramp shows including Alexander McQueen, Derek Lam and Marios Schwab.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2013

Derek Lam Spring/Summer 2013

Marios Schwab Spring/Summer 2013

Oops... Wait! Did those sleeves look alike?

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Pankaj & Nidhi - Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week AW 2013

With veteran designers like Wendell Rodricks, David Abraham (of Abraham & Thakore duo) and Rahul Khanna (of Cue by Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna) cheering from the front row, the autumn/winter 2013 collection by the fashion designer duo Pankaj and Nidhi was titled ‘My Music Box’ and they interpreted the theme in terms of graphic motifs(piano keys, guitar/sitar strings etc), pop colours and by inducing rhythm(the design element) in the silhouettes in signature Pankaj and Nidhi laser cutwork and appliqué. The show featured a wide range of silhouettes - tapered skirts, below the knee length dresses, maxi-length and a couple of peplum dresses – all fitted at waist. The range also includes trench coats and dresses with lapel collars featuring intricate surface details in bright and pop hues of pink, blues and orange with black base.

 

Trench coat with rhythmic embroidery details

 Cape with an interesting silhouette

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Togetherness

Being contented is a state odious to human kind, especially when one is young, immature (the way women see it) and is in a relationship! We all want to end up with the right person, but even the best person is never THE right person simply because relationship is a bitch, an attractive one that comes with self-outlined rules, anticipation and demands. The pendulum fluctuates from joy and levity to seriousness and sorrow; with unfathomable insecurities of hope and unfulfilled promises. It is unfeasible for two people to strike a chord and reach over an agreement over everything, particularly in a relationship where it engages one’s persona, ego and pride in question.

When in a crew of two, there is only one winner, one has to lose while the other gains. My girlfriend frequently calls me a loser. But when I serenely rest in my comfort zone, I do realize that it is only because she’s not in hers. Our choices and decisions are poles apart. Sometimes it’s about compromising for each other. Perhaps, it is true love when you deny the pleasure for yourself just in order to see and cherish the other person enjoying the benefits.

Ten years down the line, I do want to come back home to someone I love, someone who will gently brush my hair and kiss my cheek, offer an unconditional companionship devoid of any preconceived judgments, to remind me for who I am or show me my place for otherwise.

Our troubles in life are as immense as we make them. I am not certain if this is a valid ruling in every case, but definitely cannot be overlooked, at least for some of us. Everyone has their own modest tales to recite, and we all would have come across more overwhelming tales than ours. When I hear humbling stories all around me, I feel small and insignificant. I feel diminutive about going gloomy over awfully naive things in life. I wish I could perhaps appreciate life for what it is than bawling about what it could have been.

God has got his own reasons for us to meet and come this far. We have been there for each other, sailed across the tides and I hope our love will flourish beyond what it is right now. We started as strangers, became friends, and we became one with each other and will remain one forever.

Spread Love, Happy Valentine’s Day!

FOOTNOTES: A Cinderella Story- Snapshots from a styling shoot where every Cinderella story comes true!

Once upon a time in a not so far away land,

lived a boy who was unemployed, lonely and sad.

And then he saw his saving grace,

A princess walking by with an alluring face.

So the modern day ball,

turned into a visit to the mall.

It was his chance to woo his lady, It took him a while to get ready.

So he sat and watched the angel of his dreams, Everything was working out with lady luck's beams.

They started talking as their hearts were melting.

But time of their meeting ran out,
The boy had to leave without a doubt.

In his hurry, he left his phone behind,
They were destined to meet as he was all over her mind.

She looks for him with true honest love,

She finds his house as they were blessed from above.

And now that I've run out of rhyme, 

I conclude thanking my crew for their time.

Models: Abhishek (Blazer: Roy Robson, Shirt: Nehru Place, Trousers: Stitched by myself, Shoes: Melvin & Hamilton) and Annapurna (Blazer: Zara, Vest: thrifted, Trousers: Vero Moda, Shoes: Metro, Neckpiece: Model's self)

Styling: Hoser Dolma

Camera: Sayanti & Myself

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Persona and Disguise

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Yet another day unfolds, as the skies mark the dawn. There is something genuinely enigmatic about this hour, as the entire world is stationary and still. The compelling day light has not commenced yet to vex us with daily hassles, nor is it the gloomy mysterious dusk. The murky blues pave way for crimson rays. The hush, tranquility and seclusion boost zest and vigor, bringing the finest out of me. I am a fierce gladiator; finest in his arena just like Maximus in the movie Gladiator.

I recently watched the magnum opus for the N-th time while my friend pointed out that Connie Nielsen (who played Lucilla) robustly resembled an Indian princess, adorned in embellished drapes with brocades and a ‘bindhi’. She certainly did! That instantly reminded me of a recent research work compiled by my ex-Professor (NIFT) Mrs. Toolika Gupta, where she discusses the probable influence of Roman Empire on the Indian sari.

Prof. Toolika Gupta taught us history of fashion and costumes at NIFT and her insightful research on ‘Influence of British Raj on Indian Clothing’ forms the very foundation of my graduate design collection.

To quote from her research, “Fashion is a representation of cultural identity. British entered Indian with their own cultural value and identity; the very British clothing and fashion statement, leaving the Indians admiring the ‘gora-sahibs’ and ‘mem-sahibs’. The average Indian wanted to copy their styles. Petticoat and blouse became part of Indian languages. Dhoti-kurta clad commoners started sporting shirts and trousers. Textile motifs changed from lotus to tulips with flowering trees displaying exuberant Baroque curves.”

The vintage photo shows an Indian man dressed in Western clothing.

credits: oldindianphotos.in

Thus, the whole generation that grew up in India under the awe of the white man, constructed disguises to represent themselves as forward minded and educated. During the British Raj, we Indians disguised in large-scale to eradicate caste difference, to feel superior and to represent ourselves as forward minded.

I profoundly associate with the conception of persona and disguise. We construct complex disguises to represent ourselves as socially acceptable. We are so accustomed to disguise to others that in the end we become disguised to ourselves. Being a social animal, we are dual in nature.

As a child, I learnt from my environment on what parts of me can and cannot be out in the open. People fake a lot of human interactions, I fake it all.

We sport a social character (read mask), concealing the deeper identity in order to shield ourselves from being transparent and vulnerable. A persona is essential for us to adapt to the society’s demands. The real trouble however might start when you become identical to your persona, which might result in shallow, brittle and conformist kind of personality which excessive concern for what people think of you.

Rei Kawakubo whose intellectual creations often revolve around disguises.

Probably the persona itself is accountable for the abundant futile relationships. It is the ‘persona’ that ALL humans fall for. With time when the mask unfurls, we are obligated to face the malicious reality - an ideal relationship being a big fat lie. Not every relationship fails, merely because they still haven’t distinguished beyond the mask. The phrase ‘And-they-lived-happily-ever-after’ is systematically cited in fairy tales, bluntly because it’s easier to fool around with kids.

THE WORLD SEES A DISGUISE, I SEE A PERSONA!

Nobody is set to foretaste my dark past apart from myself. Today when I throttle of isolation, I can look into a mirror and risk a confrontation with self. The mirror does not flatter but devotedly shows the face that I never show to the world. Call me a narcissist, but after all, I was born with my body, I have long accepted to live with my shadow personality (with the thrill of complete wrongness), I protect it for that is who I am and I will be there for myself until I rest peacefully in soil.

Maybe all that I have is the weather and for my own insecurities I think I’ll cuddle up with myself in the warmth of loneliness for all I know maybe amidst the randomness and madness that governs this universe there is only so much space I have.

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More Answers, More Questions

As the skies started blemishing the dawn’s twilight, I stand at a break point still not discerned on where exactly to begin or what exactly to inscribe here. It has been long-drawn-out since I penned down my infinite unanswered notions here in my weblog. The recent course of events has been cozy and comforting just like the present weather in New Delhi. The environment is contentedly positioned to kick-start my final graduate design collection.

The very fact that I got through the college campus placements and I now have a job to look forward to propels oodles of warmth inside my flesh. The icing on the cake is that my best friend and I made to to the same company. I will shortly be working as a fashion designer in Burnt Umber, with the Pantaloons team in Mumbai.

At this instance when I look back, I joined NIFT to befall in one amidst John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Rei Kawakubo. I still do. It was tricky to pick between a retail brand and a designer brand. Working with a designer brand is unabashedly the easiest ticket to become the next John Galliano. However, the retail environment escalates you as a professional, nurtures your management & organizational skills and furnishes healthier conception of commercial styles, tastes and trends as you deal with the masses.

Overtime I have questioned and pondered more persistently and answered some questions, thrusting myself into a cocoon that comforted me and most of us legitimately do so, have done so, and continue to do so.

I indisputably owe this judgment to my internship in Bangalore and the working atmosphere there. The city itself is genuinely charismatic with an aura of its own. My friend once quoted, “Someday I’ll go to heaven and say, it’s good, but this ain’t Bangalore”. Bangalore’s scenic beauty, dreamy weather, welcoming natives and their relaxed lifestyle – It is all very happening and yet so calm and polite. I was gifted to work in the city, blessed to work in the company, FS Asia Marketing Ltd., a retail brand that principally deals with knits and organic fashion.

Up in the fifth floor of SMR Vinay Estate in the desolate Bayyapanahalli ring road, the office vicinity boasts of serenity and still. The pleasant wind tenderly gushes through the windows keeping everyone glued to their work in comfort. Mr. Naidu, who leads the company, is a well-poised and highly sophisticated man, dressed in pristinely tailored clothes while even his shoes never wore a wrinkle. Our boss, Mrs. Pradivya guided our team of three with the entire process of designing and developing patterns for a new organic clothing brand.

The opportunity imparted fresh and innovative approach to problem solving in design. We did research, sent out questionnaires to find the target market, their style and fabric taste and their spending habits. Senior merchandiser Pradeev helped us with the process and did the needful.

In contrast to the celebrated tales of unhealthy work culture at designer brands, the Bangalore episode bestowed me with better management and organization skills, a new dimension and thought-process apart from the scholarly knowledge on organic fashion and clothing. I met humble people. I bonded with people. I became a better person. It was in that two months when my mind was at peace in the entire four years of college life at NIFT. Retail environment is perhaps just the right endeavor for me.

Today when nostalgia suffocates me as I reminisce old times and when there is a lot to look forward to and a lot to hold back to, I write about my assessments and what they hold for me. I write when I am alone, it brings the best out of me.

With plenty of hopes, dreams and aspirations, I am looking forward to relocate to Mumbai in July later this year.

Footnote: Snapshots from Bangalore

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Creative Pattern Making

The creative pattern making modusle has further enriched my creativity and skills as a fashion designer. Before the module, I would confine myself to form-hugging silhouettes and would be scared to venture into volumes and body defying forms. I experimented with body-defying forms and silhouettes. Drawing my inspiration from Japanese fashion designers like Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake and Indian designers like Kallol Datta, I have various forms and shapes that completely redefine the human anatomy. The following muslin garments were conceptualized, designed and constructed in a limited time span of 3 hours.

Inspired from the concept of turban being a rectangular piece of fabric that is twisted and draped, a rectangular piece of fabric has been twisted and stitched at the centre front with sleeves attached. The top has a fitted front while the excess fabric elegantly falls to create delicate cowls at the back.

The fitted shirt top has the placket extended into built up neckline and gently falls to create layers.

The contours and lines of a petal, the organic form inspiration has been converted in terms of seams and panel shapes. The shoulders are dropped, delineating the arm hole with sleeve pattern cut from a single spiral panel. Two dimensional patterns combine to illustrate 3-D forms which are rebelling and highly dramatic.

Square piece of fabric has been folded in origami paper crane technique and the pristine folds are later draped to lend extreme emphasis on shoulders with revealing back.

The exercise brief was to write a story, derive an element as inspiration in order to create a garment. Drawing inspiration from the ant in ‘And and the Grasshopper’ story, the style lines and the silhouettes of the garment reflect an ant’s body contour with exposing back. The bodice abides by the body shape while godet detailing at hips adds volue in turn glorifying the feminine curves with additional emphasis.

External panels of fabrics were additionally inserted in a bell sleeve inorder to add volume and redefine the contours.

Taking cue from the legendary fashion designer Rei Kawakubo, the garment is extremely rebelling, towards the intellectual side of fashion. The garment breaks almost every possible rule right from the arm-hole to waist definition. Panels of godet have been inserted in various places such as sleeve and waist to create unusual volume.

The fitted top has one continuous spiral seam that starts at neckline, goes around front and back and finally ending at the waistline. Hence, the entire top has been cut and stitched out of a single panel!

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